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Padmasambhava (lit. “Lotus-Born”), also known as Guru Rinpoche, was an 8th-century Indian Buddhist master. Although there was a historical Padmasambhava, nothing is known of him apart from helping the construction of the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet at Samye, and shortly thereafter leaving Tibet due to court intrigues.
Just like a cake needs certain ingredients in order to be a tasteful cake, so travel requires specific components to be pleasant and memorable. I would like to start by saying that nice sunny weather is of great importance, but the cloudy and even rainy weather have proved me wrong, which made me reconsider my initial ‘recipe’.
First comes the surroundings, being a photographer, I value this village for its unique characteristics. Luckily, most remote villages (even in the densely populated coastal provinces of China) have a distinct local nature as people live from what the landscape has to offer. Houses are made out of soil and clay from that very place.
The reason why I chose to visit this particular village at this time was because of the GinkGo Tree, or Ginkgo Biloba. A tree native to China with no known relative specie, family or even division (if you want to get biological about it). This tree is entirely on its own…. Except in brief period in the end of november and early december, when its leaves turn bright yellow, some nature fanatics flock out to witness this yearly celebration of the season. Aside from its peculiar leaves, its has some other unique characteristics, as this type of tree is able to grow over 2700 years old, and has been traced back some 270 million years, hence the term ‘living fossils’ accurately applies.
My need for natural beauty has clearly been saturated, hence its time to start looking for my next ingredient, the local cuisine! My experience with towns further away from big cities, is that the food generaly gets better. Unfortunately ‘free market forces’ have even managed to influence China’s urban restaurants, as much meat comes from large animal factories, and most pork and beef is treated with chemicals to make it appear softer (still very tasty, but less authentic and possibly unhealthy).
Aside from the sea of yellow leaves in which this place was covered, poultry seemed to find its way across town as well. I think every household is at least in possession of some wild chickens of ducks. So it wasnt a rare sight to find several duck family looking for some food on the side of the road.
After climbing the highest mountain in town, it was time to sit down and have lunch. A short peek around the street revealed a man selling ducks (per piece). A little bargaining later, we agreed to eat half the duck now, and take half an uncooked duck back home, we sat down while the chef was preparing the delicious duck for us, according to a Hakka recipe.
My shopping list for a great trip was going the right way. I was surrounded by beautiful, traditional houses, in a unique surrounding with almost unreal trees everywhere. The food was incredibly tasty and fresh, I even managed to take some duck home with me. What is the next ingredient on my list?
Indeed, people! I love taking pictures of people in their ‘natural habitat’. In a way (most ways), we are just like animals, and we are most ‘in shape’, at home. A while back now, I concluded that generally, Han Chinese (as proud as they are) are sometimes less curious about foreigners, if not shy. This results in more difficult situations for me to take pictures of them, as opposed to most minorities in the the far western provinces (Tibetans, Kazakhs, Tajiks, Uyghurs, Mongols, or Hui).
After this trip, I would like to come back to this statement to correct myself. The villagers of PingTian were very eager to find contact with me, and not shy at all (although staying at a distance). In fact, most people here had never seen a white man before except on television. “Bingo” was the first thing on my mind, I didnt even need to look for ‘them’ as they were sincerely curious in this ‘ghost’ (GuiLo in Cantonese).
Despite being a village in the tropical province of Guangdong, PingTian is about 6 hours by bus up north, the weather is quite different compared to my home town, Guangzhou. Also, it is situated on a much higher altitude, which results in drastic different climate than the coastal areas. Throughout the day, I saw old people carrying logs of wood, branches and other material they could use to light their fireplaces.
Alhtough China’s one-child policy is still in power (current rumours say this law will be ceased in 2015), this law only holds for Han Chinese in urban areas (based on your HuKou, place of birth ceritficate). So minorities, as well as people who have HuKou’s from villages and towns have the right to have more children. As the men are often out to work all day, or even leave to cities to come back in the weekends, its up to the women and grandmoms to take care of the little toddlers.
Another measure for checking the quality of a destination, are the children. Do they live happily, or in poverty, do they play around or simply gaze until the day is over. Pingtian, although not rich (I think the average income of a family would be around $200-$300 per month) the kids learn how to play with eachother. My girlfriend explained how China used to look much more like this when she was young. Today, smaller townships (within bigger cities) have made way for skyscrapers and many traditions have gone with it. Nevertheless, this has undoubtably also happened in Europe throughout the 20th century.
The next day, I woke up early to check out another town nearby, with more GinkGo trees. Most houses seemed deserted, but every now and then, an old man or woman popped out of an old dark brown door with some fruits or other food in her hand to sell on the morning market. The market is a lively place, where all generations gather to keep their family members company in the morning cold.
As the day progressed, some other tourist started to appear. This could be a bad sign, as I am not a big fan of large crowds (of tourists). It generally numbs the local people to give a smile, and too often I find myself waiting for people who just walk into my scene (after settign up my tri-pod). Fortunately, the tourists (all Chinese of course although possibly some Hong Kongese) mostly care about the GinkGo Biloba.
It was time to head back home. PingTian has spoiled me with all that it could possibly offer. With beautiful people, interesting sights, delicious food and a unique character due to all its yellow leafed trees. I hope, in spite of China’s continious growth, places like this will stay untouched for many more years to come. As this place has all the ingredients of a great photo trip indeed.